Monthly Archives: October 2013

light copy

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An attempt to copy the lighting in Phil Couture’s beautiful painting “Maiko Satohana“, using acrylics in a sketchbook. I went straight in with the paints as this was more about reproducing the lighting than getting accurate proportions (the face is skewed and distorted).

I’d like to know how he made his painting: Did he work from a model or a photograph? How did he decide on the background colours, the composition? It’s always interesting to hear about what is going through an artist’s head as they make these choices.

Tea break

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Painted in acrylic from an old magazine cutting taken from an article about Tibet. It looked like such a satisfying moment.

The photo in the cutting was so dark that the figure was just a silhouette. I had to take it into Photoshop to bring out enough detail to paint. In some ways this made it easier as the noise-filled image was already broken down into large blocks of colour, the digital equivalent of squinting – another example of how a poor reproduction can make a good practice subject.

 

Roots

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Lexington Gray ink in a Pilot 78G ‘F’ fountain pen, with a light watercolour wash, copied from a photo. After a while I started seeing double, trying to keeping track of which root was which.

This was drawn in a Daler Rowney Ebony A6 sketchbook which has 150gsm acid free cartridge paper. The fine ‘F’ nib on the fountain pen did start to break up the paper a little in the overworked darker areas, but this wasn’t really a problem. In fact the paper can take a light watercolour wash without bleeding through or buckling too much.

Rose hips

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Painted with water soluble oils on paper from a photo taken in the garden. A top tip from Anna Mason’s site is to put a sheet of white card behind the subject when taking the photo. This enables you to assess the composition straight away, and there is no need to do any complicated masking in Photoshop.

The paper is from a 7×5 inch canvas-textured 300gsm acrylic pad (Galeria by Winsor & Newton). I added and extra layer of acrylic gesso with a wide flat house painting brush to further protect the paper from the oils. The texture gives a satisfying resistance to the brush.

Space is a problem where I paint, so by mounting the paper on a board it can be easily propped up on a bookshelf out of the way in between sessions or when waiting for the oils to dry. In this case, the paper was attached to a hardback Tintin book (Explorers on the Moon, since you ask) using masking tape. The masking tape can sometimes rip the surface when removed if pulled off too quickly. I don’t know if this is because I’m using masking tape bought from a DIY shop (is there a low-tack version?) or because the applications of gesso and paint somehow bind the tape to the paper.

The layers of paint on these small sketches are quite thin. In summer it took a few days to be touch dry. I don’t know how long it takes to be fully dry (or should I say ‘cured’), but as I’m not going to be varnishing these, it doesn’t really matter. I’ve read that its best to mount unvarnished paintings behind glass to protect them from dust. Most of my pictures up to now have been drawn in sketch books, but now I need to read up the best way to store these individual paintings.

 

Fire hazard

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Sometimes you’ve got to give in to that urge to get the paints out and mix them all together, just for the joy of it. Compared to acrylics, the water-soluble oils make the blending process very satisfying.

The face was copied from the Katie Sims painting Featherweight, which impressed me greatly when I saw it at a local gallery. I think the face she painted was inspired by another painting in the gallery’s permanent collection.